Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Shekhawati (Mandawa) – The Painted Wonderland


Mandawais a town in Jhunjhunu district of Rajasthan in India. It is part of Shekhawati region. Mandawa is situated 190 km off Jaipur in the north. The town lies between latitude 28° 06’ in the north and longitude 75° 20’ in the east. Mandawa is known for its fort and havelis. The fort town of Mandawa is well connected with the other places in region through a good network of roads. Just as the whole of Shekhawati region is worth visiting, Mandawa is another ancient and one of the oldest most cities in the region, definitely worth a holiday. An important stoppage for traders and merchants who exchanged good via the silk route back in those days, this city has a number of palaces and havelis and forts. Having grown in a culturally rich atmosphere, the locals have the sense of appreciating art and are involved in art work like painting, craft handicraft etc. Mandawa can be easily reached by road and is a good option to sit back and relax while the eyes see and the brains appreciate art.



Every haveli in Mandawa has its own art and painting depiction. The Hanuman Prasad Goenka Mansion features a painting of Lord Shiv on Nandi, his bull and one of Indra Dev sitting on an elephant. The Murmuria Haveli is known for being the latest work of artists in the region. The walls of the haveli feature paintings of cars and trains. It also has murals with Nehruji on a horse with a national flag and also has paintings of Lord Krishna.
The Goenka Double Haveli has a prominent façade and features two entrances. The façade has murals of horses and elephants. The haveli has protruding balconies and jutting upper floors with beautiful paintings and interesting patterns. The paintings depict typical Rajasthani ladies and also stylish European women wearing hats and adorning Victorian styles.

The Jhunjhunwala Haveli has an attractive painting of a gold leaf in a room next to the courtyard. At the southern end of the town is the Gulab Rai Ladia Mansion. This mansion is known for its fine art decorations that are depicted on both the inner as well as outer walls. These murals are some of the best and finest in the entire region of Shekhawati. The Mohan Lal Saraf Mansion also features beautiful paintings; the painting of the Maharaja fondling his moustache is the most prominent in the haveli.



The City of Mandawa was made a thikana in the middle of the 18th century. There have been earlier references to Mandu Jat as the founder of the Mandawa village. He first established a Dhani (hamlet) and dug a well here, which was completed on savan badi 5 samvat 1797 (1740 AD) (source – Shekhawati Bodh, Mandawa special issue, July 2005). Initially, this place was known as ‘Mandu ki dhani’, ‘Mandu ka bas’ or ‘Manduwas’ which changed to ‘Manduwa’, ‘Mandwa’ and finally ‘Mandawa’.

A remote feudal principality in the centre of the Shekhawati region, Mandawa was a trading outpost for the ancient caravan routes that stopped here from China and the Middle East. Thakur Nawal Singh, the Rajput ruler of Nawalgarh and Mandawa, built a fort in 1755 to protect this outpost. The township that grew around the fort soon attracted a large community of traders, who settled here.

The right to rule over Mandawa was granted to Kunwar Akhayraj Singh by his brother Maharaja Suraj Singh of Shekhawati in the year 1640 CE.

Kunwar Akhayraj Singh (1640-1676)
Kunwar Himmat Singh (1676-1698)
Kunwar Himeshraj Singh (1698-1710)
Kunwar Jindal Deo (1710-1728)
Kunwar Aryapratap Singh (1728-1746)
Kunwar Manvendra Singh (1746-1777)

Thefort of Mandawa was founded in the 18th century. Thakur Nawal Singh, son of Shardul Singh, founded the fort in Vikram Samvat 1812 (1755 AD). The fort dominates the town with a painted arched gateway adorned with frescoes of Lord Krishna and his cows. Built as per a medieval theme, the castle of Mandawa is adorned with beautiful frescoes. Rooms in the palace are decorated with paintings of Lord Krishna, exquisite carvings and amazing mirror work. The palace's Durbar Hall houses a number of antiques and paintings.



Situated in the middle of the town, the Mandawa Fort has been converted into a heritage hotel.



A haveli in Mandawa
This town has been referred to as the "open art gallery" of Rajasthan because the entire Shekhawati region and not just Mandawa is dotted with fascinating mansions (havelis) that have lavishly painted walls.

This 100-year-old Haveli is famous for its architecture and paintings, Bollywood's Favorite Destination for Movie Shooting, PK, Bajrangi Bhaijan, Mirza Sahibaan and many more

The Haveli has been recently converted into a Heritage Hotel where one can experience untouched frescos dating back to the 18th century. Vivaana Culture Hotel is a captivating twin haveli adorned with fascinating paintings. Both the exterior and interior boast of superb and rare artifacts and frescos. The over a century old haveli has been lovingly restored and renovated maintaining the old world charm.



This haveli has a painting depicting Indra Dev on an elephant and Lord Shiva on his Nandi bull.

This haveli, with two gates, has a monumental façade of elephants and horses. The outer walls, jutting balconies, alcoves and overhanging upper stories are replete with patterns and paintings, ranging from traditional Rajasthani women and religious motifs to Europeans wearing stylish hats and other Victorian finery.



The paintings of trains, cars, George V, and Venice were executed on the walls of this haveli during the 1930s by Balu Ram, one of the last working artists of the region. In pictures - like Lord Krishna with his cows in the English courtyard and a young Nehru on a horseback, holding the national flag - this haveli uses a unique theme blending the East with the West. The haveli also features a long frieze depicting a train with a crow flying above the engine and much activity at the railway crossing.

The haveli features a striking gold leaf painted room located to the right of the main courtyard.

A picture of a Maharaja stroking his moustaches beautifies this haveli.

This haveli is located in the south of town, where the decoration of the outer and inner walls is perhaps the finest in Shekhawati. Blue washes here and there betray twentieth-century censorship of the erotic scenes that had been commonly acceptable one hundred years earlier.
The Bansidhar Newatia Haveli, Lakshminarayan Ladia Haveli and Chokhani Double Haveli are some of the other painted havelis in the area.



Murals in the Thakurji temple, located opposite the Goenka Double Haveli and the Murmuria Haveli, include soldiers being shot from the mouths of cannons, a reflection of the horrors of the Mutiny of 1857. Further west are a couple of chhatris, and a step-well, still used today and bearing paintings inside its decorative corner domes.

This more than 100-year-old haveli is located in the main market of the town, near Sonthaliya Darwaza.











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